All in Beer

The Shape of Pils to Come — 30 Years of Birrificio Italiano’s Tipopils

I have a thirst to quench. It’s just as well, then, that I’ve arrived at Birrificio Italiano’s brewery in Limido Comasco, a village 20 miles northwest of Milan, in the far north of Italy. A keen northerly wind whips across the forecourt, though bright sunlight mitigates its harshness. Once inside, the brewery’s founder, Agostino Arioli—whom I first met in 2008—asks me if I would like a beer. I plump for a Tipopils, the beer that launched the brewery 30 years ago. Having drunk deeply of many glorious examples of the pils style across Europe from Brasserie de la Senne’s pristine Zenne Pils to Fässla’s crisp and sprightly example, I still believe that this is still one of the best on the continent, if not the world.

Treasure Your Hands Have Known — Heaney Brewery in Bellaghy, Northern Ireland

There’s something magical about reaching for a style of beer you rarely gravitate towards before it blows all expectations completely out of the water. This was my introduction to Heaney Brewery in County Derry. 

Malty, and caramel-sweet with a light, peppery note, I instantly declared to my friends that it was the nicest red ale I’d ever tasted.

I’d tried a few beers from Heaney over the years, having long admired their stylish, bookish yet sleek branding, but this revelation of a red placed them on higher ground. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not completely adverse to an Irish red ale, it’s just not my go to, more of a “once in a while”.

A Rising Tide Lifts All Boats — How a Fresh Beer Scene Emerged in Glynde, East Sussex

On a clear day in Glynde, staff at The Trevor Arms can look to the peak of nearby Mount Caburn—the crowning point of a well-trodden path for South Downs walkers setting off from the town of Lewes—and predict how busy they’ll be that afternoon. 

Since the pub reopened in the summer of 2025, after standing empty for eight years, the answer to that question has usually been the same: very busy indeed.

Don’t Go Far Off — McMullen’s Historic AK Mild

The glimmering edifice of McMullen’s Victorian tower brewery catches the evening sunlight like a gilded dovecote. Like other breweries of similar design, its structure allows for a gravity-fed production line: malt and liquor making their way down successive floors to be mashed, sparged, boiled, bittered, knocked-out, chilled, and fermented. Today, however, the building houses luxury apartments, and the beer cellar below contains nothing but underground parking. 

There’s Something Brewing in Cornwall

“This is Tommy, he had his own brewery in France,” said Lee, the deputy head of brewing at St Austell. 

A gang of seven or eight hard Cornish brewers lying around the processing room on the piles of hops and malt, black St Austell outfits faded by years of hard graft, stained by acid and caustic, stared at me with a sort of amused disapproval. 

“Hi guys!” I chimed, like an absolute cockhead. 

Iechyd Da! — Beer and Welsh Heritage at Purple Moose Brewery in Porthmadog, Wales

While tourists flock to the Llyn Peninsula in the summer for its seaside charms, Porthmadog retains its industrial heritage, based on slate, shipbuilding, and railways. The town is still home to the world’s oldest-surviving railway company, the Ffestiniog Railway. Its steam locomotives puff up densely wooded mountain slopes, and past small patches of Celtic rainforest, before emerging into the slate-strewn, moon-like landscapes of the old mining centre, Blaenau Ffestiniog.

Hey Boy, Hey Girl — Kerroo Brewing Company in Port Erin, Isle of Man

Coming out of a six-month winter is disorientating. The Isle of Man stands against the Irish Sea’s worst, proud in the spray like a prow, and while its storms are destructive, the heaviest toll is the grey and the fog. “I feel like we haven’t seen the sun in forever,” says Elizabeth Townsend, one half of Kerroo Brewing Company, which she runs with her partner, brewer Nick Scarffe.

I Predict a Riot — The Battle for the Soul of Leeds’ Independent Beer Culture

Autumn and winter 2015 brought heavy storms and severe flooding to the U.K. As news came in of sandbags and dinghy rescue missions, one image cut through the gloom: two men waist-deep in the flooded beer garden at the Kirkstall Bridge Inn in Leeds. They leaned on a pub table, glasses aloft, like a jovial Jack and Rose bobbing around in the flotsam of the Titanic. But in this scene, the only things sinking were pints.

The Union Forever — How Thornbridge Saved a Vital Piece of Brewing History

In January 2024 Garrett Oliver emailed Thornbridge co-founder and managing director, Simon Webster. He’d heard a rumour that Carlsberg were “laying the unions to rest,” and asked if the Derbyshire brewery were interested in acquiring one of the sets. Fortuitously, Simon—a self-confessed Burton-o-phile—along with fellow co-founder Jim Harrison and production director Rob Lovatt, were keen to get their hands on one.

My Heart Leaps Up — Beer, Graft and Tourism in Cumbria

I first met Matt and Michelle when they worked at Hawkshead Brewery, Matt as the head brewer, and Michelle as the head of marketing. In the 2010s, Hawkshead was the pride and joy of Cumbria’s independent beer scene. Its beer was great, and its outdoorsy, alternative vibe appealed to both the Lake District’s ever-growing tourist population and its locals. It was a brewery that not only made beer, but provided a valuable social space, supported regional events, and represented Cumbria across the country.

A Poetic Act — Zoigl, the Schafferhof, and the Making of Place

Communal brewhouses with gear-and-pully mash tuns. Brewing rights that stretch back to the Middle Ages. Wood-fired brew kettles and coolships. All this alone is enough to make Zoigl utterly unique. But there’s something more, the essential ingredient that ties everything together: the Zoiglstube. It’s in these traditional taverns that the magical transformation of communal brewhouses and coolships into Zoigl takes place. Without the Zoiglstube, Zoigl is just another Kellerbier.

Deep Inside My Heart — Hopleaf, Chicago’s Beer Bar

Hopleaf Bar—referred to most commonly as just “Hopleaf” or, sometimes locally, “the Hopleaf”—is a loosely Belgian-inspired pub that has played an outsized role in the development of the city’s, and the country’s, beer scenes over the last 30-plus years. Even still, it has never lost its identity as a community meeting place. It’s both a local for many Chicagoans and a destination for pilgrims seeking this holy land of beer.